donata: (Wise Cat)
Nepal travel report, part V

I had previously decided that I had milked this holiday long enough and that I would not make any more Nepal posts but rather return to the usual business of posting random ramblings every now and then. However, friends of mine who abhor cats (Yes, I know. But apart from that they are really lovely people.) told me that, after I had been announcing them for weeks and weeks, it was about time I posted those cat pics already. They were really keen on seeing them.

Such is the power of the kitten.

Seeing as everyone who knows anything about anything knows that kittens are among the four most happiness-inducing things on earth, they have to be complemented with other happy things.

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Sugar and spice and everything nice )
donata: (Intrepid)
Nepal travel report, part III

On the fourth day of the trek, I enjoyed a private “Sound of Music” moment, just before we reached Junbesi. Sadly, I couldn’t share it with anyone, because this particular popcultural reference requires considerable herzensbildung that, I fear, none of my travel companions possessed. Barbarians. (English speakers, take note: just like “schadenfreude” and “angst”, “herzensbildung” is a phrase that you really should incorporate into your language).

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Get thee to a nunnery )
donata: (Intrepid)
It's never been my intention to provide a blow-by-blow account of our route; however, this map might help you to picture my Nepal ordeal adventure.

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We drove out to Jiri (1935m). From there we walked to Shivalaya (1800m), then Bhandar(2200m), Sete (2580m), Junbesi (2600m), Nunthala (2330m), Bupsa (2360m), Surke (2290m), Bengkar (2610m), and finally arrived in Namche Bazaar (3440m), where we stayed for two days to allow our bodies to acclimatise to the altitude.

Don't let the reasonable and moderate-sounding elevation levels fool you. It was ~1000m up and ~1000m down every. Single. Day.

From Namche Bazaar, it was just a stroll to Dole (4000m), Machermo/Panga (4500m), and finally Gokyo (4800m).

On our way back, we made the trek Gokyo - Khumjung (3753m) in one day; on the next day, we had lunch in Namche Bazaar and walked down to Phakding (2623m). Then, off to Lukla, from where we took the plane back to Kathmandu.

The trek lasted 15 days in total. The remaining days were spent in Kathmandu (hot showers & Internet!).
donata: (Intrepid)
Nepal travel report, part II

One of the most beautiful spectacles in nature is a lonely yak, wandering serenely up a steep mountain slope. I wanted to film it, but it was too far away. You will have to take my word for it.


Extremely picture-heavy post under the cut )
donata: (Intrepid)
Nepal travel report, part I

On the way to Kathmandu, at Heathrow Airport, trainer-wearing, mobile-phoning Buddhist monks stole our seats. This goes against everything that I or anybody else ever thought they knew about Buddhism, and only goes to show that that path to Enlightenment is longer and stonier than you'd think.

From Kathmandu, we had planned to fly in to Lukla: the starting point for everyone and their mother who sets off for the mountains (if everyone and their mother want to ramble about the Everest region, which most of them do). And so we spent five happy hours (and I'm using the word "happy" very loosely here) at the domestic airport in Kathmandu, in the company of other dismayed hopefuls and hoards of natives who, doubtlessly, were not gloating at all about the fact that they could fly to their respective destinations, whilst the tourists, with all their Western equipment and functional wear, could not.

My favourite bit about this whole experience (and I'm using the word "favourite" very loosely) was, how you stop caring after a while: There was a huge black box sitting right in front of the check-in counter, and at first, we were wary of it like you are wary of any item of luggage that doesn't seem to belong to anyone. But after a while, wariness made way to weariness, and I ended up sleeping on said box, seeing as it was the perfect height for my head to rest on, whilst the rest of my body rested on my backpack. That's how you can wage the war on terror in people's heads: make them sit around in airports till they're bored out of their skulls and willing to fraternise with potential enemy luggage, just because any possible alternatives seem even more horrid.

Seeing as we couldn't fly (the flights for that day and the following three were cancelled), we decided to walk rather than spend even more endless hours waiting at the airport. And so we hired a taxi, and it took us only nine and a half hours to drive out to Jiri - the town from which it would take us only six more days to walk to Lukla: the starting point of the actual Everest trek.

But it was totally worth it. In fact, the route Jiri-Lukla turned out to be my favourite part of the trek, what with not being bloody freezing.


This is the taxi that took us into the mountains. We had to stop every few hours to let the car breathe (see open bonnet).

And then we walked. There were landscapes.

Landscapes like this one:


Bigger, better, more behind the cut )
donata: (Intrepid)
You guys, I'm back! I've survived the sub-Everest experience (made it to almost 5000m - the height of Mont Blanc, apparently), haven't died (or found enlightenment, alas), returned home with plenty of pictures (currently uploading), and just had a steak (rare). There will be updates soon.
donata: (Default)
- Two nights ago, we had an earthquake (4.9 on the Richter scale). Mother nature, you just have to love her.

- Actually saw the Everest today! We walked up (wheezing and gasping due to altitude) to an Everest view point near Namche Bazaar. Plenty of pictures were taken, to be posted at a later point.

- Off to see a Buddhist monastery in half an hour.
donata: (Eddie's got legs)
Bullet-point update, cause time is ticking and I'm paying by the minute.

- Kathmandu is a dump. You'd think I'm used to smog and dirt, what with living where I do, but Kathmandu really takes the cake. Ah well, at least the air in the mountains is fresh and clean.

- Mountains, though. Are high. Like, really high.

- Climbing done so far: thousands of metres up, thousands of metres down, some 100+ km in total. For seven days, if I'm not mistaken. But who's counting?

- It's surprisingly fun. I don't even suffer from sore muscles (nor from any other ailment commonly associated with travels to Asia, thankyouverymuch). My leg muscles feel like something out of an anatomy book looks like. Shame winter is approaching. Had it been summer back home, I'd be wearing mini skirts all the time. (*appropriate icon is appropriate*)

- After seven days of low-level (haha!) trekking, we've now reached Namche Bazaar, where we're staying today and tomorrow for altitude acclimatisation purposes. Also, shopping. Also: INTERNET!

- I've written and sent off almost all postcards that I intended to write and send off. Let's see how long they take to reach their respective destinations.

- The mountains are beautiful, and I've even taken a reasonably high amount of pictures. I'll upload them when I'm back home. Some of them are pretty.

- R. and I collected an Australian (*winks at [profile] babycakesin*) (I've brazenly told him I was hoping to meet an Australian on this tour, as they are always good value.) (Verehrteste, wenn Sie jetzt nicht die bewusste Coupling-Folge "lesen", dann weiss ich auch nicht.) and a Canadian on our way through the mountains and have been travelling with them for the past few days. Moreover, we are accompanied by two local porters/guides. The guys are a) fun and b) protecting us from all dangers that might befall two delicate, helpless females in the wilderness of Nepal.

- Dick Darlington FTW! < / obscure reference >

- The highest point reached as yet was the Lamjura pass (3600m above sea level), where we had lunch (very delicious Dhal Bhat) at a local woman's hut. There were also kittens. There will be pictures! (KITTENS!)

- @ [personal profile] ihlanya: A couple of days ago, we encountered a weasel that was writhing on the ground in agony - it had either had something wrong with its spine, or (the Australian's theory, surprisingly!) had been bitten by a spider. I put it out of its misery with a rock. I'm such an outdoor-compatible murderer adventuress!

- Yesterday, we saw an elderly (and drunk) Nepali woman fall to the ground, to the great and giggly amusement of the locals (the kindhearted type, obvsly). I wasted one of our two pairs of medical plastic gloves wiping off blood and snot off her face. I'm such an outdoor-compatible adventuress (intrepid)!

- The trekking days are very short, and we've been spending our afternoons and evenings sitting around in the common room of the lodge of the day until bedtime - i.e. eight - half past eight. Seriously, the Nepalese are mental. The latest I've gone to bed was half past nine, and that was pushing the curfew considerably.

- There's a variety of local booze made from wolf meat (or so we've been told, but I don't entirely trust the source). I'd love to sample it, but apparently, it's hard to come by.

That's it for now. I'll be having Internet access tomorrow, but then I'm off into the wilderness once again. See y'all on the other side!
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